Tempting Fate a.k.a Driving in Thailand

Thank you all for your positive feedback - -

As far as your questions are concerned, I'll try to answer some of them here.

There seems to be an interest in traffic on the part of readers. Maybe that's because so many of my clients live in the Los Angeles, CA area.

Los Angeles has become the road rage capital of the world. Well, let me assure you that if Thailand were not primarily a Buddhist nation, blood would run in the streets. There are more opportunities for road rage in a Bangkok city block than all California cities together.

Noise level in Bangkok? Ear splitting loud. People not only use iPods against the onslaught of sound, but wear masks as a desperate attempt to avoid black lung.

People drive on the opposite side of the road from what I'm used to, but then again, that isn't even a sure thing much of the time.

First of all, when dealing with traffic, don't expect any American rules of the road to apply.

Driving in Thailand is nothing short of tempting fate.

A recent traffic study in Bangkok concluded that 12% of the city's area would need to be paved in order to accommodate existing traffic. Currently, less than 5% of the city center is asphalted. This disparity has given rise to some interesting solutions and driving techniques. Here are just a few of the highlights:

1. The whistle blower: A policeman whose sole duty is to add to the overall three ring circus element of rush hour traffic. This policeman blows his whistle whenever traffic can exit or enter a main street at a driveway, alley or parking structure. Judging from the constant blowing, traffic ALWAYS has the right of way. This leaves pedestrians one option - RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!

Cal, one of my traveling companions, experienced this in front of our hotel. He tried to walk past the entrance while the whistle was blowing (foolish boy!). Cars wouldn't stop and the whistle blower just blew harder and louder. Fortunately, Cal had made several temple offerings during the trip which (we believe in the Thai way) provided protection.

2. The NASCAR countdown: Traffic lights in Bangkok are unbelievably long. So long, in fact, that drivers were convinced that lights were broken. The resulting intersection chaos (worse than usual) demanded a remedy. The solution? A countdown. It goes like this:

When you pull up to the light, red numbers flash, let's say "80." As you watch, the countdown begins - - 79, 78, 77, 76 (one per second). Whenever our group was in a taxi, we couldn't resist shouting the final countdown of 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 and with ONE and a hurray! we were off into the intersection. A number of cabbies got a good laugh at our enthusiasm. And we learned the term for crazy American.

3. The U-turn - This maneuver isn't entirely unfamiliar to LA drivers. When you've missed a turn, just go to the next light and turn around. The Thai concept is similar with a few interesting twists.

If you miss a turn off in Thailand (whether on the freeway or in street traffic), it is perfectly acceptable to stop - - and back up. Yes, you read me right . . . BACK UP into traffic. The first time we experienced this in a taxi on a freeway, I couldn't believe it was actually happening. I had one of those "slo-mo" moments - - a slight out-of-body experience. If traffic is too heavy to permit a back up to the missed exit, do a u-turn instead.

The u-turn is useful not only in cases of a missed exit, but often because "you can't get there from here." Numerous times we found ourselves going north in order to go south, or south to go north. After a u-turn or two, though, you miraculously find yourself going in the right direction.

For instance, in front of our hotel in Bangkok, the road was divided with no ability to turn across traffic to get into the hotel. So just drive past the hotel, make a u-turn, drive back the other way and let the whistle blower toot you in.

This practice makes maps useless - - or it maybe it is because maps are useless that u-turns work.

4. The Thai shortcut - - "I know a short cut" is a phrase that chills the heart of any tourist in a taxi. A "short cut" is just an excuse to keep driving. When stuck in Bangkok traffic, a taxi driver isn't making any money. (In New York, the meter keeps running when stopped; not in Thailand.)

So rather than kicking back and playing the game of countdown at a light, a driver will say, "short cut" and dash down a side street, alley or up along the sidewalk if necessary. This practice showed us more of Bangkok life than we ever expected.

And a short cut isn't always a short cut (obviously). Trying to get back from the weekend market, we ended up down a miniscule side street, idling behind a Land Rover at a t-intersection. The Rover couldn't turn because a Toyota truck was draining oil out of barrels in the middle of the road. Some short cut.

5. The Optional Lane a.k.a. Playing Chicken a.k.a Free for All - - Now this is an innovation that we can't even imagine working in LA on a regular basis. The optional lane is one which is supposedly dedicated to traffic flowing opposite ways at different times of day. In theory it's great. A bit like the police placing cones in front of The Hollywood Bowl to expedite the flow of traffic after an event. However . . .

In Bangkok, there are no cones, no police and the lane belongs to anyone who grabs it first no matter which way he is going. Consequently, traffic in this lane seems determined to end in head on collisions. The winner of this chicken game is usually the largest vehicle (no surprise there). So, if you choose to use the optional lane, be sure to drive behind a bus going in your direction.

6. The all time favorite - - "Monkey See, Monkey Do" In other words, if you see someone driving in a manner which is faster but out of the ordinary, it means that you can do it, too.

Case in point: The freeway from Bangkok to Pattaya was jammed with trucks and going at a crawl. Running along the road was an incomplete and unopened toll road. No problem.

One car made a dash across the dirt onto the newly laid roadway, sped past the police, dashed between concrete barriers and took off past the slowed traffic. Well, hey, if he can do it, so can we!

Over the river and through the woods doesn't even come close to the rollicking ride we had. Smokey and the Bandit without a CB radio. All was great 'til we came to a solid cement wall, stopped suddenly and got smacked from behind by another monkey doer. Got out of the car, exchanged words, back in the car and off again.

Note: In the case of an accident, insurance companies are called, and adjustors come directly to the scene. All is settled on the spot - - no lawyers required. Even in cases of severe injury, there aren't large settlements.

Modes of street transportation include cars, trucks, brightly colored taxis (easier to see in the dark), tuk-tuks (opened backed passenger trailers) and thousands of motorbikes. By the way, taxis use propane and the tanks sit in the trunk. So - - if you arrive at the airport with lots of luggage, order a van. That is unless you prefer the thrill of your possessions hanging off the back of a taxi with only a bungy cord preventing your underwear from being scattered like breadcrumbs so you can find your way back.

Another stunning sight is seeing babies and toddlers perched on a motorbikes - - no belts, no helmets. Actually, just about everyone and anything travels by motorbike - - including livestock. In Cambodia, we saw a pig catching a ride to market.

So next time I'm stuck in traffic on my way to an event, I'll remember the optional lane, wistfully with a slight tinge of terror and just hope that there's a countdown light up ahead instead.

Upcoming posts will include my interview with medium Peter Close done at his home in Thailand and my own experience with a Thai medium and a fortune teller.

SIZE MATTERS

Whoever started the rumor that size doesn't matter, obviously hasn't been to Thailand.

Here, BIGGER is BETTER . . .

There aren't computer stores; there are computer malls.

There isn't just a GAP; there are 100 stores making jeans to order.

There aren't just amulets; there are shivalingas which are phalluses representing the creative force of the Hindu god Shiva. The greater the size, the greater the blessing and resulting luck. At a local market, I saw a shivalinga which could have doubled as a Louisville Slugger. (Size matters.)

There isn't just a temple; there is Angkor Wat which is a forty square mile complex with pools large enough for 600 concubines and individual homes for 12 wives. Okay, so Angkor Wat is in Cambodia now, but the Thais still claim it culturally. The Cambodians have ungraciously named the city Siem Reap (translation: where the Siamese were conquered). It doesn't matter that this happened more than 500 years ago - - it is still a sore point.

There aren't just domesticated cows, oxen, dogs, cats and monkeys; there are elephants which have been used historically for war, for royal transportation and for clearing jungle, and building everything from a fence to stone palaces. BIG elephants.

There aren't just restaurants; there are BUFFETS. Huge spreads of cuisines from Thailand, China, India and the West. For breakfast at the Holiday Inn, you can have a Japanese omelet (which has the consistency of pate), beans on toast, French pastries, fried rice and miso soup. Oh, and don't forget the salad bar - - "a healthy way to start the day." (I didn't make that up; that's what the sign says.)

In most cases, bigger is better.

EXCEPT - - when it comes to dress size.

A friend told me not to bring much in the way of clothes because clothing is cheap in Thailand. Wisely, I ignored that suggestion. However, within 7 days I had sweated through every piece of packed clothing. And since there are no laundromats (got the hint when I noticed that every balcony in Bangkok has clothes hanging), I thought, "Why not buy a few things?"

Why not? Well, for instance, there are no plus size stores. My bra cups are so large in comparison that a few young Thai girls could go swimming in them on a hot day.

Finally, I found a place in the market which sold XXL t-shirts which are airbrushed with suspicious characters. I think that they're actually meant to be tents, but at $2 for 4, they'll do.

Now please understand, that in America, I'm not considered really big. Maybe just XL - - but here, I am HUGE.

This could not have been more apparent than when we visited the hill tribes in northern Thailand, outside of Chiang Mai. These groups, the Akha, Hmong, Lisu, Karen, Lahu, Mien and Paduang are largely refugees from Burma, Laos, Vietnam, Tibet and China. Their traditions are very much alive and they live in thatched villages, grow crops the old way and make money by selling handmade crafts and tribal clothing.

These people are petite. Small in a way that we really can't fathom. Tiny in stature (some women not more than 4'5" and small boned.

The Paduang are known as the "giraffe people." They earned this nickname because their women don an ever increasing pile of heavy metal rings around their necks. This practice depresses the rib cage so dramatically that their necks appear longer. The faces of these women are extremely fine featured and beautiful.

Enter big American lady.

I didn't expect to cause such a stir. At first I thought that I was just being solicited to buy intricately woven purses, hats and clothing. And then, after a few photos with colorfully outfitted tribesmen that looked absolutely terrified when I squeezed in between them, I thought, "Hmmm . . . must not see many Americans."

And then . . .

Children can be so perfectly uninhibited.

A young boy (about 4) ran up to me at the prompting of his brothers. When I bent down to say hello, he reached up and tried slipping a garlic clove down my shirt. When that didn't work, he tried to place it on my chest. He was delighted with himself (as were his cohorts in crime) , but his mother started to admonish him. I just laughed and reassured her that I understood.

Of course he looked and my chest and could assume only one thing - - - BUFFET!

Size DEFINITELY matters.

The Spirits Spoke in English

The second most popular American show in Thailand is MEDIUM. Another is GHOST HUNTERS. I took this as a somewhat encouraging sign that a visiting medium might be welcomed.

However, other popular American shows are of the reality variety - - "10 Million Criminals Run Wild Through the Streets of America - REAL BOUNTY HUNTERS, " etc. When I mentioned that I had hoped to lose weight on this trip, one of our guides said, "Ah, America's BIGGEST LOSER. I watch." With enthusiastic hand motions, I stressed that I had NOT been a contestant on that show. Sigh . . .

But back to MEDIUM. There is wide acceptance of spirit communcation in Thailand and a historical connection to ancestor worship through the large numbers of Chinese living here.

However, watching TV is one thing. Experiencing the love conveyed through spirit communication is another. One of the greatest honors (and thrills) of this trip so far, has been connecting people in Thailand with their loved ones.

The same question gets asked whether I'm in the States or overseas. "Will you understand the spirit if they didn't speak English while alive?" The answer is "yes." I am fortunate that Spirit often allows me to hear the original language running like a soundtrack in the background with the thoughts coming through in English - - a bit like watching a movie with subtitles.

The first opportunity presented to me was a haunting. A lovely family asked if I could tell them who might be disrupting things in the house. The idea of "restless spirits causing trouble" is big in Thailand. Mediums are used to find out what the spirits want so that the problem can be fixed. Maybe that's why BOUNTY HUNTERS is so popular here. Renegade spirits are a bit like renegade criminals and mediums are like the bounty hunters bringing all to justice.

Darn, and I didn't bring my cuffs.

Not knowing quite what to expect, but trusting Spirit (and my guides), I entered the house and asked that all gather in the parlor area. Shutting off the flourescent lights (which every house, store and hotel use) and lighting a candle, we found ourselves sitting in an impromptu circle. I asked if we could start with a prayer and blessing for protection (which I always do) and this was met with great enthusiasm. Blessings are big here.

The group we had sitting in the circle was an interesting one . . . all family, except for me. Three women born in Thailand and a farong (white man) who had married into the family. Fortunately, the farong would serve as interpreter.

I always chuckle inwardly at the idea that dead people speaking a foreign language, translate English to me which is then translated again back to the original language. It seems a miracle that communication happens at all! (Especially when we with physical bodies can hardly understand each other in the same language!)

The three Thai women are sisters (one a psychiatric nurse, another the head of all nursing at a local hospital). The farong, married to the third sister, has been living in Thailand for at least 45 years.

The first spirit to make an appearance identified herself as mother, the one who fell asleep and never woke up. She showed herself has having very thin hair, but having been very beautiful when young and being a traditional dancer. Once this was translated, there were enthusiastic exclamations and head nodding all around. I received confirmation that the mother of these three women (who had lost most of her hair) mentioned to one that she was going to take a nap. During her sleep she died of a massive heart attack. This had been very difficult for the family because she had died so unexpectedly at 59. (And by the way, she had been associated with the royal court where traditional dancing was performed.)

The next spirit to come through was the brother to thank one of the sisters who took him in and nursed him through his long illness (AIDS). He shared many personal details which left no doubt that he was still around the house and made it clear that by physical actions, he was letting his sister know that he was around. (Thought that maybe this resolved the "haunting" situation . . . not quite.)

Right in the middle of talking with the brother in spirit, a husband of one of the ladies arrived home. Imagine his surprise to find himself in the middle of a spirit circle when he was expecting to relax after a long day . . .

The newest arrival is a high level military man dressed in uniform with a quiet, yet commanding presence. Uh oh - - I wasn't sure how this was going to go! But as he walked through the door, I saw a man in spirit walking with him. When I described him, he was identified as father. This man's father and mother communicated clearly and beautifully. The most precious thing conveyed by the father was that he saw his son with the "bird pin" that day. (I could only describe the pin as it was shown to me; he wasn't wearing it.) When this was translated, the response was overwhelming. This dedicated military man had attended a comrade's funeral that day and noticed that his friend's uniform was missing this "bird pin." He took it off his own jacket and pinned it to his friend's in honor.

Not a dry eye in the house.

There were many more wonderful examples of Spirit demonstrating love. But what I was told later, was that this stoic military man expressed more emotion that evening than he had in the past year. Spirit does that - - heart to heart.

Well, the haunting situation wasn't settled yet. The final spirit person to identify herself was a lady who had hung herself and wanted to thank the psychiatric nurse for taking such good care of her while she was in the hospital. She made it clear that she didn't want to scare the nurse by her actions in the house, but wanted to be sure that she knew that she was fine and appreciated the compassion shown to her. She also wanted the nurse to know that she should not feel responsible for her death.

And now the backstory I heard later.

This dedicated and compassionate psychiatric nurse had found the patient hanging and tried to save her. After that she left the profession, went into administration and then retired altogether. Finally, not only was the spirit at rest, so was the nurse. No cuffs needed.

The other readings during this trip have been touching as well. Our guide in Chiang Mai was so moved by his mother's communication in spirit, that gave my card to a Japanese lady who came to Thailand expressly to find a medium. How funny to come to Thailand and be referred to an American medium!

The healing power of love through mediumship - - not limited by language or religion, or culture, or country. Now THIS is what keeps me going.

Close Encounters of the Monk Kind

I woke up this morning realizing that this trip to Thailand is a bit of a pilgrimage. I don't think that this was a conscious expectation, but certainly a sentiment in my heart. I wanted to experience a country where spirit communication, reincarnation and energy work was not only accepted, but a way of life.

I wanted to belong - - to find a spiritual home.

My work as a medium has been well received here in Thailand. (More details later once I have the okay of the sitters.) And the personal healing (judged by the tears of men and women since I don't understand the language) is tremendous.

But more than the work, I wanted to "feel" the energy of Spirit - - I wanted to find a transformative experience in the temple compounds (wats) of Thailand.

In Thailand, there are wats EVERYWHERE. And there are monks EVERYWHERE. Before coming, I read quite a bit about Theravada Buddhism and the protocol for dealing with monks. The last thing I wanted was to create an international spiritual incident.

Many young men in Thailand serve as monks for 1-2 years - - in other countries there is mandatory military service. In a John Lennon moment, I could imagine all men in spiritual service . . .

Anyway, back to reality.

Thailand is an interesting mixture of Buddhism, the influences of Hinduism and animism - - there is Spirit in all things and the Buddha is revered above all. No Buddha images may be removed from the country.

When a structure is built, those spirits who have been displaced, are provided a spirit house and offerings. There is an understanding that all actions affect others. Shrines in unexpected places to Hindu gods (like Ganesh) shift the energy of the place and raise the vibration of the surrounding location.

When the Erawan (elephant) Hotel was being built in Bangkok, there was one tragedy after another (including a death of a workman) until a shrine was built. Now the hotel is one of the most beautiful and successful. My father used to say, "Can't argue with success."

I made an offering of incense and jasmine at the Erawan shrine and watched young women perform traditional Thai dance for extra luck. (I found out later that an offering would ensure pregnancy.) With the crowds, the mufflerless roar of motorcycles going by and eyeblinding clouds of incense and other less appealing smells, it was not the spiritual experience I was looking for - - and I didn't feel any luckier (and I wasn't pregnant).

So, I thought, "Okay, look for the monks. Listen to chanting in the wats. Meditate before a golden Buddha image."

Now just an aside - - women cannot approach monks, cannot touch monks and cannot hand alms or anything directly to monks. That doesn't seem like a big deal until you're in Thailand. As I said before, monks are EVERYWHERE - - and not just in the wats - - and not just one or two at a time. But groups on the sidewalks, on public transportation . . . EVERYWHERE, but especially where a clumsy and big American woman is going to bump into one.

But monks are also where I thought I would find quiet, contemplation, solitude and Spirit.

Not.

The wats are full of noisy people, souvenir huts, refreshments and yes, even monks.

In Chiang Mai it is literally wat city. Right down the street from our hotel is a beautiful compound. I heard that monks would be chanting at 5:30 p.m. so I was there at 5:25. And I was the only "farong" (white person) there. It was quiet, contemplative and then . . .

"How old are you?" I was being addressed by a monk in orange robes who didn't look older than 16. This question created a dilemma. What was protocol? It didn't help matters that he was standing there with a hose watering the sand in front of the temple.

I decided to answer with, "You guess." This stumped him . . . fortunately.

I then asked, "Will you be chanting today?"

The answer, "No chant. Water." (Just my luck.)

The conversation continued for quite awhile - - the length determined mainly by our difficulties understanding one another. I placed my business card on the steps of the temple and he picked it up - - obviously appreciating my understanding of what was appropriate. He kept the card and asked if I was single - - alone. He was thoroughly distressed to find out that not only was I single, but I didn't have any children. He pondered this for some time before saying, "Must go. Must water." And I could almost hear him thinking, "Must pray for you."

Yesterday we trekked up into the mountains to visit the most famous and beautiful of the wats in the area, Doi suthep. Three hundred steps lead to the temple grounds. A gold stupa is the center of the temple area and golden Buddhas surround it on four sides. The wrought iron fence around the stupa is hung with bells of all sizes which are rung by devotees as they walk. Huge gongs (one donated by a man from Georgia, USA) are bonged regularly. Absolutely deafening.

And yet. . .

My traveling companions, Gloria and Cal, and I found ourselves alone in a temple on our knees with a monk blessing us with water. Afterwards, Cal got a white string tied on his wrist by the monk and Gloria and I had the same done by a lay person - - all for luck. Once outside the temple, we had to sit down. The energy was so overwhelming it was difficult to stand. Power in the blessed water, being blessed by a monk and being prayed over by him. It was palpable. In essence, what we came for.

But still . . . no chanting.

And then this morning at 4:30 a.m. I awoke to the sound . . . of chanting. What happened to 5:30 p.m.? I hung my head out the window of my room listening. Beautiful chanting from the wat of the young monk I had met two days before.

Chanting . . . and then the rooster started to crow. The sublime and the ridiculous.

The spiritual in the midst of the everyday. The answer.

Spirit reminded me, once again, that what we expect may not be what we receive, but we receive what we need.

Tripping Evil Spirits

I am doing my best not to trip my way through Thailand - - literally.

There is a general belief throughout the country that evil spirits can only travel in a straight line. Consequently, to protect homes and rooms within structures, all doorways have a very high jamb - - 6 to 8 inches isn't unusual. It is a bit like living in a submarine without hatches.

I find it VERY comforting that evil is so easily thwarted; I just wish that I weren't so easily thwarted as well. I would almost welcome a ghost or two if it meant returning to the U.S. with all limbs intact.

The first encounter with this tradition was at Jim Thompson's House (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd.) which is one of the best-preserved traditional Thai houses in Bangkok and one of the finest museums in the country.

Jim Thompson is a colorful character of mythic proportions - - an American with the OSS (precursor to the CIA) who stayed in Thailand after WWII and is credited with reviving the Thai silk industry singlehandedly. Before he mysteriously disappeared in the jungles of Malaysia, he collected 6 teak Thai homes, reconstructed them along a canal in the middle of Bangkok and filled them with treasures.

His collection represents the finest sacred and secular objects from 14 centuries of artistic expression. You might think he had to be as rich as Howard Hughes to do all of this, but the truth is that objects most valued for their historical value today were worth nothing as religious objects. Jim's Buddhas are headless, armless, legless or just busts. And the belief throughout Southeast Asia is that once a Buddha image has been damaged, the spirit is gone.

I attemped to join the displays of the armless and legless when I nearly took a header through a doorway. The jambs in Jim's house are 8 inches high. In addition, I stubbed my toe because shoes are left outside the door. Don't laugh. It takes practice to deter evil without hurting yourself in the process.

Once the obstacle course was run, I visited the jungle garden where I bonded with Oscar, a very large fish who like his tummy rubbed. And if you don't believe me, I have the photo to prove it. (Photos will be posted as soon as there is enough internet time to do so.)

See? Oscar didn't have to worry about jumping over hurdles to be safe from evil spirits. He just had to float around getting belly rubs. Ah, if it were only that simple for all of us to feel safe from evil and loved by others.

Travels and Travails

I haven't stayed up for more than 24 hours since college - - and I don't recommend it once you're older than 24. However, if you want to visit Thailand and are traveling from Los Angeles, CA, get ready for a l-o-n-g trip.

Actual flying time is 17 hours - - that doesn't include the initial travel to the airport, the two hours to get through security, the 3 1/2 hour layover in Tokyo and the dodgeball driving to the hotel after landing in Bangkok. At several points during this ordeal I asked myself, "And you're doing this why?"

Well, it isn't as though Spirit didn't give me a few welcoming signs along the way.

On the flight from San Francisco to Tokyo, a lovely lady who is an architect in Bangkok gave me her card and offered to take me out to dinner and make herself available if I needed any help during my stay. Another passenger, on his way to Hong Kong, told me all about his job with Ambercrombie and Fitch. He oversees the quality of the "Hollister" brand. "Why," I asked him, don't the clothes fit any normal people?" He assured me that his own girlfriend (a size 8) can't wear them either. I was not reassured, especially since I thought it would be fun to do events in a Hollister shirt. Not going to happen.

At Tokyo's Narita airport, I thought the the plane had made a u-turn and landed in the middle of Rodeo Drive. The gates only served as inconvenient interruptions between stores like Tiffany, Ferragamo, Cartier, Hermes and the pedestrian Coach.

There were also Japanese shops full of Little Kitty merchandise and psychedelic sweets. Each box of candy was a work of art. But since chocolate is my drug of choice, I was forced to consider the pounds and pounds of Belgian chocolate for sale. However, with the faint hope of someday wearing a Hollister shirt, I refrained.

I did, however, have a pound of See's candy in my carry-on. No, not for an emergency chocolate fix, but for a hostess gift. I wanted to bring items which were distinctly American and particularly Californian. Since I didn't think I would get through customs with avocados, See's was the next choice. That and CDs of Broadway hits, Jazz standards and American Idol's Taylor Hicks rounded out the selection of gifts.

Once we finally landed in Bangkok, I dashed off the plane, down the gangway and came face to face with a 25 ft. tall blue god - - the Thai culture has adopted some gods from the Indian culture - - I do think that this was an incarnation of Indra - - a protector.

There were other immense statues of gods in the airport as well. However, what was made clear immediately was the reverence for the king of Thailand. His photo hangs everywhere with signs proclaiming, "Long Live the King." This king is beloved and revered above all except maybe the Buddha. His reign of 60 years has been one of special projects for the people and the preservation of the culture of Thailand. Do not make the mistake of considering this special king to be a mere politician. He is loved and no one, I repeat, NO ONE is to say anything unflattering about him.

The drive from the airport to the hotel put Nascar to shame. So glad that we made the choice NOT to rent a car. I'm just not ready to cross over - - and that is more than a possibility driving in Bangkok.

The city is filled with cars . . . and pollution. Some do wear masks to filter out the toxins.

And then through the haze under the elevated sky train was the sign for Holiday Inn. And I was happy.

Holiday Inn Bangkok was redecorated last year. It is like no Holiday Inn in the states - - marble everywhere, golden silk on the walls and gongs hung by the elevators. Rooms themselves are simple, elegant with silk coverlets, a menu of pillows (yes, a guide next to the bed is called "menu of pillows" and explains the variety on the bed) and the bathroom has toiletries laid out like sushi and a glass enclosed rain shower.

All I cared about was the rain shower followed by the menu of pillows. I slept on them all. I "ate" the whole thing.

Okay, so now I’m getting excited about this trip to Thailand. Things have been so busy up until this point, that I’ve been a bit distracted.

So why Thailand? Well, ever since I played Anna in The King and I many summers ago, I’ve wanted to experience Siam firsthand. Over the years, I learned more about the country, the culture and the religion, all of which continued to draw me in closer. And finally, I was invited to visit Thailand by Peter Close, an international medium, who now makes his home in Thailand. Peter and I had worked side by side for years at Robert Brown’s yearly retreats in the Bahamas. (Robert Brown authored We Are Eternal.)

Of course I wasn’t about to hop a plane to Thailand and sit on Peter’s doorstep until he let me in. Instead, this is how Spirit worked it out . . .

I “happened” to be in San Diego teaching a workshop for The Learning Annex. Two people I had met in the Bahamas at one retreat “happened” to attend. After mentioning to me that they had relatives living in Thailand, they “happened” to sit next to Peter Close at dinner one night. More than dinner was cooked up - - that night a trip to Thailand with me as a guest was served up as dessert.

My two traveling companions, Gloria and Cal Duncan, love mediumship and think that I’m funny. (We’ll see if they still think so after being with me for 3 weeks on the road in a foreign land.) Gloria’s cousin, Charlie and his wife, Lek, have volunteered to be our guides for the duration of our stay. Charlie is a leading authority on Buddhist art in Thailand. His book is available on Amazon. Here’s the link: http://www.amazon.com/Buddhist-Art-Introduction-Charles-Chicarelli/dp/9749575547/sr+1-1/qid=1168710696/ref=sr_1_1/103-1065836-1983820?ie=UTF8&s=books.

Today, though, I had no time to read Charlie’s book. I was a medium on a mission - -

First stop – Travelex (The World’s Foreign Exchange Shop) where I bought Thai baht at a great exchange rate - - 31 baht to the dollar. For those of you in the Los Angeles area, Travelex is located in the Glendale Galleria on the 5th floor next to Mervyn’s. There are other offices in West Hollywood and Beverly Hills.

Stop Two - To get ready for 3 weeks of new food, I ate authentic Thai cuisine at Thai House Restaurant, 449 S. Glenoaks Blvd., Burbank, CA (818.848.1169). I even tried pronouncing the name of my dish. In response, my waitress giggled, which I think means in Thai, “You said it perfectly.” Bean curd with bean sprouts – delicious.

Three - Staples to copy all important travel documents three times.

Four – Costco to buy a digital camera.

Five – Radio shack for voltage adaptors.

Six – 99c store for last minute necessities including toothpaste. (Like they don’t have toothpaste in Thailand.)

Seven – Go home and collapse.

Tomorrow I have to pack. Maybe I can just bring the camera and the toothpaste and forget about the clothes? Naked medium at large . . . hmmm . . . . might create an international incident.

Tomorrow. Pack.

Touching the Spirit World in Thailand

Thailand.

Pristine beaches, some of the greatest diving in the world, beautiful, smiling people, exquisite temple compounds, tigers, elephants and exotic food.

Thailand.

Bombings, child predators, disaster by tsunami.

Sounds a bit like Southern California on a good day, so I should feel right at home.

I've been wanting to visit Thailand for years because friends have visited frequently, some have stayed and others (because they couldn't pick up and move) brought back souvenirs, a different way of looking at life and one, even a wife.

And now that it is my turn, I am much more concerned about what to bring!

Mosquito repellent - check. Malaria pills - check. Kevlar vest (note to self: purchase.)

I've had shots for Hep A, B, Typhoid and Tetanus. My physician rolled her eyes when I mentioned innoculations (none available at her office or covered by insurance . . . sigh), so it was off to Healthy Traveler Clinic, 1250 East Green Street, Pasadena, CA 91106 (626) 584-1200. The staff is extremely informed and the doctor exceptionally talented at giving shots. It is one stop shopping for all a traveler's medical needs as well as for yearly flu shots.

There's more prep to go before leaving on January 15th. I'll keep you posted!